Sunday, June 27, 2010

Island in the sun

Saturday, June 26th
This morning we took a very chilly 2 hour boat ride to isla del sol. We arrived on the island and the sun was shining bright and it glistened off the deep blue water. The five of us hiked all around the island. The hike itself was not that difficult nor that challenging, but the altitude and the thin air was a killer! If you had heard me breathing, you would have thought I was asthmatic. The vistas from the island were amazing! We stopped in the middle of the island along a beautiful sandy beach and ate lunch - cheese sandwiches! After lunch Vicki, Kate, and I hiked on to the south end of the island. The island smelled like eucalyptus trees and sea air. It was lovely. The only thing that tainted the experience was all the little Bolivian kids begging for money. In the afternoon, I hopped on the boat back to copacabana alone to continue my journey to La Paz -the highest capital city in the world - and to meet up with my buddy Sophie whom I had befriended in Lima. The bus ride to La Paz was pretty painless although it took longer than expected. When I arrived into La Paz it was freeeeeezzzzing!!! I met Sophie at the hostel. We went for dinner and planned our next adventure. And so it goes- we will head north to the amazon to do a 4 day jungle trek

Pay up...suckah!

Friday, June 25th
Today, my new friends (Vicki, Kate, Reto and Richard) and I were off to cross into Bolivia. Sadly, I was the only one (only u.s.) that had to pay the $135 fee for an entry visa (thank you president bush!). Besides paying the fee, the border crossing was a snap. Copacabana is beautiful...way better than puno - Peruvian side of lake titicaca! We walked around town, enjoyed the sites, watched some world cup and cooked a communical family dinner at a hotel that we weren't even staying in. 
When we arrived into town, the 5 of us tried to book a room at this amazing hostel that sat up on a hill that overlooked the lake. Sadly, that hostel was completely full. We befriended the owner, Matthew, and he offered us his kitchen to use, hammocks to lay in, and hot tub to relax in. We took him up on the kitchen offer. As a group, we cooked a glorious chicken curry dinner with lots a tasty white wine. We had tons of laughs and great fun! Tomorrow, we will visit and hike isla del sol - a small island in the middle of the lake.

Saturday, June 26, 2010

Reeds, reeds, and more reeds

Thursday, June 24th
Today I was off to visit two very different types of islands in lake titicaca. The first stop was to these islands called the Uros islands - a.k.a the floating islands. There were about 50 islands where the native indigenous peruvians lived on. These man-made islands were made of layers and layers of reeds. The natives took pieces of floating land and tied them together using strong ropes and then packed layers upon layers of reeds on top of the soil. They then anchor the islands in place with sting ropes so the current won't blow them away to the Bolivian side of the lake. The islands themselves were quite facinating. The islands are about 19 meters thick and only a few hundred meters long. The largest island contains 5 families but most contain about 2 or 3. Each island has a president and there is a mayor of all the islands that gets voted into power. There are about 2,000 people that live on these islands and they live their entire lives on these islands. They don't use currency to get things on the mainland, instead they trade the fish they catch for thing they need. It's a truly fascinating culture. They also speak their own native Incan dialect. When we arrived on the islands, the local Incan woman greeted us with song and huge gracious smiles. They were dressed in traditional costume which consisted of a large wool poodle-like skirt, a brightly colored bolero jacket, a knitted hat and woven tassles in their hair. They invited us into their home and dressed us in their local garb. The homes were beautifully constructed of bamboo like wood and thatched roofs. The home was literally a matrimonial bed and some hooks in the wall for their clothes. Basically, it was the size of a new york city apartment. The girl, Karina, who invited us into her home was only 17years old. Karina was the wife of the president of the island and already had one daughter. I bought a handmade handicraft from her that took her a week to create. 
After the floating islands, we headed to another island called Taquile where there resided another idigenous group of Peruvian Incan tribe. This island was not man-made, nor made of reeds. It was however, solely inhabited by the indigenous community. This community of people had lots of rules and regulations about how they live their life. It was very interesting to see...but way too many rules for me. ;)
Later that night, my bunkmates and my new buddies from the boat - Reto and Richard (both Swiss) all went out to dinner and danced the night away! Tomorrow we will all head to copacabana - the Bolivian side of lake titicaca.            

Llamas in the luggage compartment

Wednesday, June 23rd
The family all woke up early to catch the first bus out of cabanaconde to head to our various destinations. The Belgium couple were headed towards macchu picchu, the colombian was headed to huacachina, and I was off to the largest and highest alpine lake in the world. We rode the bus together for a few hours. On the bus ride, Daniel gave me a plethora of fantastic reccommedations for places to visit and stay in Bolivia and Colombia. A few hours into the bus ride, the bus made a 10 minute stop-over in a small town. I disembarked the bus for a quick pee break. As I walked out of the service station, I saw a woman loading 2 young llamas in the luggage compartment underneath the bus. My reaction was "no way!" The woman just picked up the llamas like they were housecats and stuck em in with the luggage. The llamas just layed on down amongst the boxes and suitcases and just kicked it like it was no big thing. It was a crazy sight to see. After about another hour or so I had to hop off the bus alone in the middle of nowhere to flag down another bus to get to my next destination - puno, lake titicaca. I was sad to leave my "family" behind. The next bus I caught, I sat on the floor for about an hour and then i was moved to sit (literally) next to the bus driver for the remainder of the trip. I arrived into lake titicaca at night so I couldn't see the lake yet. I checked into the hostel, had the most amazing roasted chicken dinner (in my life!!!), and made new buddies with my bunk mates - Vicki from London and kate from Scotland. Tomorrow, I will take a boat tour around the lake to visit the indigenous islands.

A bumpy ride

Tuesday, June 22nd
We woke up early to do our ascend up the mountain. We decided to hike a quarter of the way up and then we'd take a local truck the rest of the way. The hike was beautiful. We walked alongside the river for the most part and weaved in and out through the local people's land. Once we finished our hike we boarded a pick-up truck bed with only locals. The locals had all brought various fruits and veggies that they had grown on their land to sell to the major town nearby. The truck was so packed that we were all sitting on top of beer crates or grain sacks. Everytime the truck stopped and picked someone else up, all the locals aboard would start yelling at the driver that we were full and no one else could fit. Did that stop them. Hells no!!! At one point my buddy, Michael was handed a giant bushel of grains (probably weighed 20 lbs) and held it in his lap for the remainder of the ride. He was a good sport and a trooper. At the end of the ride, he turned to the local peruvian woman and jokingly asking her for 5 soles for holding her stuff. The whole truck giggled. We were the only non-Peruvians aboard. It was quite an adventurous, squished, bumpy and dusty 3 hour ride...but well worth it! When we arrive back into cabanaconde we just relaxed and watched a world cup game. Tonight we had a fantastic meal at our favorite pizza place. I was sad knowing that I would have to part ways with my friends (we called each other "the family") tomorrow; who I have gotten to know so well and throughly enjoyed their company. But alas...I must keep a trekking on... Tomorrow I will head solo to lake titicaca.

Trying so hard to leave...

Monday, June 21st
So, we have been camped out in the canyon for a few days now. Each day that goes by makes it harder and harder to leave. Since we've been at the bottom of the canyon... I've gone (very briefly) swimming in the freezing  river, made an attempt at fishing for trout with a very basic round net with weights on the end, spotted some condors carrying a snake in their talons, played some shithead (card game), taken in some sun- rays, had some amazing conversations, met some new travellers, sat in the hot springs for hours on end, had a grand campfire with a delicious midnight swim, ate some incredible Peruvian food, and got a proper photography lesson from mr. Colombia (the photography extrordinare). Overall, the colca de canyon experience was delightful and refreshing. We've decided to hike back up to reality tomorrow and continue our journey throughout Peru.      

Down under

Thursday, June 17th
Today was our first day of our adventurous hike down into one of the deepest canyons in the world. We decided to hike the canyon by ourselves - Michael, Margreet, Daniel, and myself. The hike is a downhill windy trail of switchbacks along the edge of the mountain. We would decend about 9000 feet in one afternoon. The day was perfectly sunny and slightly breezy. It was a good day for a hike. When we started off on the trail we got to the edge of the mountain and looked down and saw a tiny narrow trail that looked almost impossible yo do on our own. As it turns out, we had gone completely the wrong way. luckily we realized this before we started our desent. We asked a local Peruvian for directions and were off to start our hike...finally in the right direction. The hike was trecherous only because I hadn't broken in my hiking boots yet. That was a BAD idea! The view was incredible. The mountains are rocky and sandy colored with splashes of eucalypus trees, green brush and cactii dotted all over. Along the trail we passed some Peruvians walking back to the town with their donkeys in tow carrying heavy loads. As we desended you could hear the roar of the river below. It was quite mediatative. After 4 1/2 hours of hiking we arrived at our destination. A tiny village called llahuar. When I say village, it was literally 2 hostels made of bamboo and mud bricks on the edge of the moutain overlooking the roaring river below. Basically, it was heaven. The hostel that we stayed in was called llahuar lodge and was owned by the sweetest Peruvian couple - Yola and Ronco. Yola reminded me of someone who could be your grandmother and tells you the best stories. She greeted us with a huge smile and wore a beautiful typical Peruvian embroidered hat. She also has a laugh that touches your heart and you can't help but smile when you hear it. Our plan was to stay there for a night or two and then we'd continue hiking to another part of the canyon. The hostel not only had the most magnificent view of the canyon but it had 3 natural hot spring pools (with varying temperatures) that sat above the roaring river. We will see how long we'll last for...   

Octopii t-shirt

June 17th
The Belgium couple and I travelled to a very small town called cabanaconde. It's a town that sits near the edge of the colca canyon. It's a quite little dirt town with an old church in the middle. Today I made more friends along my journey. We ended up befriending 2 Americans from California, a dutch boy, and a cute Colombian guy. I noticed mr. Colombia in the bus station because he was wearinG an octopus t-shirt that I had seen 2 other travellers wearing (in different parts of peru) in the last week. I complimented him on the t-shirt and before you know it, he was part of our travelling family. As we were talking I learned that he lived and studied English in New York city and Amherst. So we started swapping stories of our favorite New England spots.    
Upon arrival into cabanaconde, we all decided to stay in the same hostel and have a big communial pizza dinner. It was great fun.
Tomorrow we will desend about 4 hours into one of the deepest canyons in the world. It will be an experience that won't be forgotten. 

Thursday, June 17, 2010

Maxin and relaxin!

June 16th
Today, I am still enjoying the sites and sounds of Arequipa. I wandered into a giant mercado where the locals sell their freshest fruits, vegies, meats and fish. I saw so many fruits and vegetables that I've never seen before. I saw a strange fruit, about the size of a kiwi, that was white with purple stripes on it. I saw corn on the cob that was as black as the night. I tried a few fruits and have discovered that I have some new favorites - guanabana and chirimoya. Both these fruits are green and tough on the outside like the skin of an avocado but on the inside...they taste like a mango and pineapple made sweet sweet love! 
After the mercado, I meandered around the city. It was a pretty chill day. Tomorrow, I will travel on a bus to a small village that sits on the edge of the deepest canyon in the world.  

Wednesday, June 16, 2010

A city rocked by volcanoes

June 15th
We arrived in Arequipa early in the morning. The overnight (10 hour) bus ride was miserable. The journey to our destination was a treacherous windy road that zig-zaged through the mountains. I maybe slept a total of 3 hours because I kept thinking that the bus was gonna drive off the edge of the mountain at any second. Luckily, that was not the case.
Arriving into Arequipa was a breath of fresh air. The city is BEAUTIFUL! The city sits in a valley under two majestic and active volcanoes. Most of the buildings were built from a light-colored (almost greyish in color) volcanic rock that dazzles in the sunlight and the roads are made of a smooth cobblestone that is slippery to walk on. Arequipa is Peru's second largest city and hosts numerious universities, restaurants, shops, and a great nightlife scene. 
Today, the plan was to take it easy. We just walked around the city exploring and admiring the beautiful Spanish colonial architecture. We ate some great ceviche (Peru is famous for their ceviche), watched some of the world cup, and saw a traditional peruvian folklore band play.
Overall...it was a good day.     

Pilot in training

June 14th
Today my Belgium friends, Margreet and Michael, and I woke up early to take a morning flight over the nazca lines. We reserved a 4 seater prop plane to fly us over the awesome, mind-boggling lines. I've been on a handful of small aircraft in my day but nothing quite this tiny. The flight would be a total of 30 min and we would see dozens of lines and figures mysteriously carved into the ground below. We arrived at the airport teamed with excitment. Hopped on the plane and away we went. Now...I've never been sick on a plane ever before, but, the flight was literally 30 min of an intense rollercoaster ride - twisting back and forth up and down. I came very close to loosing it. If I had eaten breakfast before the flight I would have for sure lost it. During the rocky landing, pilot #1 (new pilot) was flying the plane and for whatever reason lost confidence and so pilot #2 took over the plane to land it. After touchdown, Pilot #2 turned to pilot #1 and said "see...it's easy!"  
Despite the nausating flight, the lines were pretty amazing! You can't see the patterns at all from the ground, they are only visible from the sky (which is pretty incredible if you think about it). There are lots of rumors and hypothesizes about who, how, and why the lines got created. Still to this day no-one knows for sure. One theory is that the lines were created around 900BC to 600AD by the Nazca and Paracas indians by removing sun-darkening stones from the desert surface to expose the lighter soil below. Some believe that the lines were an astronomical calendar, ritual walkways conected to a water or fertility cult, giant running tracks, representations of dreams, or extraterrestrial landing sites. Today, archeologists are still discovering human skulls around the lines. 
After our flight, we spent the rest of the day walking around nazca city. It's kinda a run down barrio but is under alot of construction to revamp and beautify the city. 
Later tonight we will take a 10 bus ride to arrive in the morning at a city called Arequipa, the second largest city in Peru. It's a colonial city that sits in the valley of 2 majestic and active volcanoes.
I'm looking forward to the new city, but not excited about a 10 hour bus ride.
 alas...if I must...I must!

Monday, June 14, 2010

Master of sand and time

Today my Belgium friends and I were to take on the dunes. We started our day off enjoying a quality breakfast at a american run hostel. The server told us that we could enter a drawing to win a case of beer after the Germany-austrailia world cup game. So I wrote my name on a paper and hoped for the best. After breakfast we paddled around the tiny lagoon in a small rowboat. Following our nautical adventure, we watched the world cup game with a bunch of Germans and helped cheer them on to their victory. After the game, the server conducted the drawing for the winner of the case of beer...can you guess who won??? Me! The lush that I am won twelve 40oz beers. What was I to do with all this beer? I gave every table at the restaurant a bottle and my new friends and I finished the rest at sunset in the desert.
Now we were ready to take on the dunes! We hopped on the dune buggies and went racing at ridiculously fast speeds thru the dunes. Every other second I thought the buggy would flip over because we would fly over the edge of the dunes and drive sideways up the mountains. Fortunately, we never flipped. After racing around the dunes, we were given sand boards (closely resembled snow boards) to zoom down the dunes on. The way to travel down the dunes is to lay down head first on the board. Your body is only halfway on the board when the guide gives you a shove down the mountain. When I was at the top, I immediately thought...what did I sign up for??? The guide says " UNO, dos, tres" and gives you a shove down the dune. These dunes were probably about 600ft high and you'd go flying down them so fast that the sand felt like little acupuncture needles piercing the skin. And the sand ended up everywhere on your body...especially places that sand does not belong. The whole experience was amazing! I'd definitely do it again! After the dunes, the belgiums and got on another bus and headed south to nazca to fly over the myserious nazca lines.

Sunday, June 13, 2010

Desert oasis

June 12th - Today was a long day of travelling. I would head 6 hours south to the town of huacachina. It is a tiny speck of a town that surrounds a palm tree rimmed lagoon in the middle of the Peruvian desert. Imagine a mirage-like small oasis in the middle of the sahara desert....and that's exactly what this town looks like. The plan was to get there and go sand boarding, its kinda like snow-boarding but on giant sand dunes instead of snow. The bus ride was very comfortable. No chicken bus today. As we drove south I noticed some towns right up against the highway where the buildings were literally concreate boxes with tin roofs and nothing but desert for miles. No grass, no vegitation, no people. I wondered if these were deserted villages or if all the people were working someplace else. It was a strange site and a mystery to me.
I arrived in Ica (bordering town) well rested. When I hopped off the bus, I made two new friends, an adorable couple from Belgium (Michael and margreet). I ended up sharing a hostel with them that night. I felt kinda bad about encroaching on their sexy time but they said it was alright. They are wonderful people. Michael is a French chef and a seasoned traveller. He's been travelling for over a year and started his journey in Asia and eventually worked his way to the U.S., Canada, and down to central then south America. His girlfriend margreet is in school to be a social worker and has very little travelling under her belt but she seems to be going with the flow quite nicely. We had a lovely dinner and conversation together. Tonight we digest our thoughts and food and get some good rest. Tomorrow we take on the dunes!

Lima and beyond

I arrived at the Lima airport (via coach...no more business class) and amonst the hoards of people waiting to recieve their loved ones was a taxi driver holding a sign above his head with my misspelled name on it -aerin. It's funny because it felt nice to feel something familiar in a foreign place. He looked like a math teacher I could have had in high school. He welcomed me with a big smile and played American music for me in the cab ride to the hostel. We spoke about the Peruvian people and their culture. As we were driving to the district of miraflores, I noticed numerous ads for the world cup. He asked me if I had a favorite team...without hestiation I replied "the U.S." I then told him that I play soccer in the states. Upon hearing this shocking statement, he glanced in his rear view mirror to get another look at me and he almost lost control of the car with excitment. I arrived at my hostel and the staff were very friendly even at the very late hour of 11:30pm. I befriended my bunk mates straight away and struggled to fall asleep because my mind was teeming with ideas of my adventures to come.
The following day, I walked around Lima all day with my 2 new friends - Sophia (from Singapore) and Sarah (from begium). I would describe Lima as a metropolitian city that is a blend of modern Miami, classic Spanish colonial architecture, and the slums of central America. The buildings are very brightly colored; lots of brillant oranges and Cuban yellows. We walked all around the city. At one point we ended up at the central plaza where the palace and a beautiful catherdral are located. In the middle of the plaza is a beautiful park where there were thousands of people watching the world cup on a giant projector screen. There was a group of peruvian kids playing music and cheering for the game.
After watching some of the game (France vs. Uruguay) in the park we decided to go to Chinatown in Lima...because...who doesn't want to see a Chinatown in a south American country? Ha!
After the full day of Lima adventures we went back to the hostel and drank our Peruvian adventures away. Tomorrow, sadly, the three of us ladies would go their seperate ways.

Thursday, June 10, 2010

And away we go!!!!

The morning started off beautifully! I had an amazing driver in my cabbie who played salsa music for me on the way to the airport when I told him where my destination was. He said he wanted to get me "in the mood" for my voyage. It was lovely! When I arrived at the airport and checked in, I was informed that I didn't need to wait the the looong line. I thought "woah...where's she taking me?" then she points to the "priority access" line. I then started to hear angel singing above. I waited...hmmm...maybe a total of 15 min to get my boarding pass and walk through security. Love the life of first class!! Then I board the plane to find out they bumped me to business class. What? How lucky am I??? Oh...but wait...the story gets better. As I am soaking in all my business class glory the old indian woman sitting next to me starts coversing with me. One of the first things she says to me is "do you pray?" I replied "no." She then asked "do you believe in god?" I replied "no...not really" Not even a minute later she slaps me across the face. What? Who does that happen to? I'm sure go would be happy with her choice to slap me upside the head! Ha!
I am now on my second flight from Miami to Lima, Peru (sadly sitting in coach..but fortunately next to a cute guy).
This is where I will start my journey.
To be continued....